Wine, Beer and Spirits Part 2a Red Varietals When I first started learning about wine, I was overwhelmed by all the names. How was I going to learn the thousands upon thousands of wines. Taking a lesson from my management concepts, I knew I needed a system. A system that would allow me to get organized and learn about each type of wine, its varietals and examples of each varietal. As I began to look at different wine list and read what little information available in the mid 1960's, I realized that there are basically three different classifications of wine. Think of that; only three classifications. Now, I can handle three kinds of wines. It is generally accepted that the three classifications are table wine, fortified wine and sparkling wine. There is some over lapping, but basically we can organize all wines under these three classifications.
Wine is a naturally fermented juice. Wine can be made from any type of fruit or fruit product. The natural fermentation process yields a complex liquid that is more than water and alcohol. The fermentation process begins when the fruit has reached a high enough sugar level that natural and now designed yeast can feed upon the sugar. The yeast turns the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide leaving behind a liquid product that has properties the human tongue distinguishes as sweetness, acidity (sourness), bitterness and saltiness. These five properties are all that we humans can taste. So, when we say this taste good, we are comparing these five properties. What we sense are these properties and all else is what we smell. So, when we say this taste good, we are really saying this smells good. The art of smelling wine will be covered in later sections. It is from what wine is produced; how wine is produced; and what is added or take away from wine that determines the three classifications of wine of table wine, fortified wine and sparkling wine.
Let's start with table wine. Table wines comes in three types of wine. Table wines are defined as red, white and rose wines naturally fermented and containing up to 14% alcohol. These wines are usually part of a meal, thus the name table wine. These wines are also called still wines because the carbon dioxide has been allowed to escape from the wine leaving no air bubbles in the wine. The color of red, white and rose wines are determined by the skin pigments in the grapes used to make the wine. Depending on the type of grape used and how long the juice of the grape comes in contact with the skins of the grape will determine its color.
Fortified wines are wines that have had neutral grape brandy (wine that has been distilled) added to the wine. This neutral grape brandy is a high alcohol product and when added to a table wine it raises the alcohol level from 14% to usually to less than 24% as controlled by the winemaker or legally allowed by the governing institution. Two of the best known fortified wines are sherry and port. Other kinds of fortified wines are Marsala, Maderia, and Aromatized wines. Aromatized wines are wines that have been fortified with neutral alcohol that has had items like herbs, roots, flowers, tree bark and other flavoring ingredients steeped in the alcohol and added to the wine.
Sparkling wines are defined as wines where the carbon dioxide has been dissolved into the wine either by natural process or by man induced process. Natural sparkling wines are called Methode Champenoise named after the Champagne region in France where the method was first utilized. All sparkling wines are not Champagne, but all Champagnes are sparkling wine.
As we dig deeper into organizing wine we get to the different grape varietals. These are usually divided into two groups, red grape varietals and white grape varietals. Although there are hundreds of grape varietals, I will deal only with nine red grape varietals and ten white grape varietals. These varietals make up many of the best known and appreciated wines of the world.
Red Grape Varietals
Cabernet Sauvignon (kah-behr-nay Soh-veen-yown) Cabernet Sauvigon can be made into red, white or rose, but the most appriciated is the red Cabernet Sauvigon. This varietal can have pungent aromas of blackcurrants and cedar. It tends to grow best in France, United States, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Italy and South Africa. The Cabernet Sauvigon grapes produce a red/purple full bodied dry wine when used alone. Often this varietal is blended with other varietals to produce a long living and aging wine that becomes mahogany when aged properly.
Gamay (gah-mah) This varietal makes a light, fruity, easy drinking wine. It can have a cherry, raspberry fruity aroma. The name Beaujolais an area in Burgundy, France is most often used to describe the gamay grape. It is the most popular wine in France making up over 60% of total wine production. The Gamay varietal is light red/ garnet to full red in color. The Gamay is a member of the Pinot varietal family. Gamay grapes are grown in the Beaujolais region of France, California, Canada, Eastern Europe, Loire, Switzerland and in Valle d'Aosta in Italy. The Gamay does not age well, thus it is drunk young to enjoy its freshness. It is the first wine released in France each year an is celebrated as Beaujolais nouveau.
Gremache (gre-NAHSH) This varietal is purplish rose' to pale brownish/red. It is perfumed, somewhat spicy aroma and can be light to very pronounced bouquets. This varietal is often blended with Syrah and other varietals produced in areas like Chateauneuf-du-Pape France and Rioja Spain. Also grown South Africa, Australia, Italy and California. The wine Travel a rose wine is produced from this varietal.
Merlot (mehr-LOH) Merlot is ruby red, sometimes slight orange to red/brown in color. This varietal has a fruity aroma of strawberries, cherries or plums. This varietal does better in cooler climates. Although excellent by itself, it often blended for its intense bouquet and softness. St Emilion is a wine that enjoys the benefits of the Merlot varietal as well as the French Pomerols grown in France, California and Italy.
Nebbiolo (nehb-bee-OH-ioh) This varietal is truly one of the superior red grape varietals. Grown primarily in Italy, the Nebbiolo is an aggressive full bodied, high in alcohol and acid with a spicy aroma and a taste of olives and mushrooms. This varietal makes the great Barolo, Barberesco, Gattinara, Carena, Roero, Inferno, Donnaz, Ghemme, and Valtellina reds that have a good, long finish. The Nebbiolo can also be found in Uruguay, Switzerland and California where wines of reasonable quality are produced.
Pinot Noir (PEE-noh- NWAHR) This is a very difficult varietal to grow. But, it is my favorite. For me this is the King of Wine. Pale to deep burgundy red elegant fruity quality of light raspberry, beetroot and strawberry aromas. Not as tannic (bitter) or dry as Cabernet Sauvignon the Pinot Noir has great breed and power, almost silky. And when mature it is a full bodied, dry, alcoholic distinctive penetrating flavor wine. The Pinot Noir is blended with Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay to make Champagne and sparkling wines the world over. Grown in France, Germany, Canada, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Italy, South Africa, Austrilia and in the cool areas of Oregon, New York, and California. Also known as Spatburgunder, Noiren, and Pinot Nero.
Sangiovese (san-jo-VAY-zay) This bone-dry, touch of bitterness with moderate alcohol, greet acids and tannins is the favorite of the pizza crowds. The Sangivese varietal is a major component of Chianti, Carmignano, Vino Nobile, and Torgiano wine of central Italy. This earthy light to intense garnet/red strawberry fruity and raspberry aroma wine is consumed like water. In Italy often water is added to the wine and then given to children in place of juice or water. This varietal is often copiously blended to Cabernet Sauvignon to smooth and stretch the other wine. Although Sangiovese is notably an Italian wine, it can be found in the United States, South Africa, Austrilia and South America.
Syrah (see-RAH) Dry, dark, dense fruit with complex tannins the Sarah varietal is truly a big wine, good acid balance and mellows to a smooth full-bodied rich wine at maturity. "When in doubt," I say, "Get a Syrah." The Syrah is one of 13 grape varietals used to make Chateauneuf-du-Pape (means the new chateau of the Pope). Pale ruby to garnet and deep almost black/ red to red/brown, the Syarh is distinctive in its pepper, cassis, blackerry and rasberries aromas. This varietal makes great wines like Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage, Cornas and St Joseph. Grown in France, United States and in Australia where it is known as Shiraz. Whether with cheese or steak, the Syrah is a wine to be enjoyed.
Zinfandel (TZIN-fan-del) There is some dispute about this varietal, but it still makes some great wine. Known in old Yugoslavia as Plavac or Plavina this varietal has become a California classic. Varies widely in nature and quality from rare rich white to fresh, dry and fragrant rose's and blushes, to light and big reds (ageing well) to late harvested Zinfandel dessert wine; the Zinfandel is a varietal that can be made into any wine you want, need or like. Zinfandel can be pale yellow, to rose, to deep ruby/red, to inky garnet black with prominent fruity, berry-like aromas. It can even be brambley and wild blackberry. This is a complex wine. Grown in California, and Italy; the Zinfandel is being tested in South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand with mixed results.
I was going to continue to the White Grape Varietals, but I think we had better stop here before everyone falls asleep. For me this is exciting information; but I understand not everyone has the same passion for wine as me. So, we will take a break here and start up in Wine, Beer and Spirits Part 2b White Varietals with the White Varietals.
Some wine experts may not agree with me about how I described these varietals, but this information is taken from the many wine tastings I have been and my tasting notes on the wines tasted. Everyone's palette is different and taste is subjective.
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